Lined vent for unlined or partly-lined garments and method of making it



Jaly 12, 1927.

R, A. FElss LINEN VENT FOR UNLINED OR' PARTLY LINED GARMENTS AND METHOD Ol?` MAKING IT Filed Feb. 1p. 192s` fa/vwl.

3 Sheets-Sheet .5

ijatented July 12, 1927. e

UNITED STATES PATENT .OFFICE BICI-IARD A. FEISS,v OFCLEVELAND, OHIO, .ASSIGNOR T0 TI'IE JOSEPH & FEISS CO., OF

Y CLEVELAND, OHIO.

LINED 'VENT FOR UNLINED OR PARTLY-LINED GARMENTS AND METHOD OF MAKING IT. l i

Application 'ledFebruary 10, 1923. Serial No. 618,345. j

My invention relates to a lined vent for unlined or partly lined garments as well as to the method of making the vent.

My object has been generally to improve c upon a garment vent construction. Supposedly new Vfeatures are he use of an eXtra lining piece in half lined7 quarter lined or unlmed coats.

The doubling over oi such an extra lin-` ying piece to supply the desired added stiffness and reenforcement of the vent lap.

To insure a neat and trim hang of the vent. The various lsteps of performing the method I believe to be new are, in sequential order, as follows:

vent lining piece and both into the jaw of the binding machine with the top of the vent lining piece projecting a fractionof an inch above the top of the vent lamination-ofthe half back.

7--Binding the'two pieces togethervdown to the bottom ot' the coat material and continuing the bindingacross the bottom of the particular half back and up its opposite side to the a'rmhole.

8-Cutting the lett hall back of the garment.

9-Binding the left halt back from the top of its mid back portion downwardly, around its bottom edge and up to the other armhole.

lO-Iiaying the two half backs facel to 'face and curve to curve (the lining piece being left outside), sewing the mid -back seam a traction of an inch from'its edge commencing atA the top and continuing straight down lo a traction of an inch below the beginning ot the curveiat the top ot' the vent projection and then making the usual tack at the bottom of the seam.A

ll-Seaining back the bottom ot the left l-Cutting the materialfor the right half halt back parallel with the bottom along the iull width of the vent. f

l2-Trimming ott thefmaterial above the bottom seam along a line parallel thereto and trimming ol the outside of thematerial at an angle. j

l-Laying the garment pieces back to back at the vent with the wrong side of the pieces up, opening up the mid back seam by pressing, notching the right half back at the concave curve where it joins the Vent projection to a point as far as the seam and then turning the left vent right side out at the bottom and pressing both it and the right vent.

A14u-Clipping ott the binding extension to leave a traction of an inch, superimposing the vents perfectly fiat and felling the vents together' crosswise commencing at the bottom of the seam.

l5. Felling around the curve of the vent lining piece from underneath and by hand, joining the vent lining piece to the lett halt back and across the mid back seam to the edge of the binding, turning the extension of the binding under the right side of the mid back seam and felling the right sideof the vent lining pieceto the right half back down a sufficient distance to cover the lamninated parts within, preparatory to turning up and basting the bottom of the right half back to correspond with the turn-up seam oit the left half back. y

16Felling the bott0m` turn-up of the right vent across the latter and down along its edge, fellingthe binding edge of the left vent from top to 'bottom and felling the turn-up at the bottom of the left half back.

Adverting to the drawing:

Figure I is a broken plan view of the right half back suited to the manufacture of a sack coat and fashioned with a vent flap.

Figure II is a corresponding view show-y ing a portion of the edge supplied with a binding.

Figure III isa plan view of a vent lining piece cut with symmetrical halves.

Figure IV is a plan view of the lining piece iolded along a middle line.-

Figure V is a view corresponding to Figure IV with binding applied to acertain portion of its edge andy with tree projecting ends.

Figure VI 'is a plan view showing the mid back seam 14 made, commencing at the top of the two back pieces to a Atraction ot an inch below the top ot' the curved edges 3 and 12. A tack is also made at the lower end of the seam in a manner common to the art. The construction of the seam 14 provides a pair oli'coinparatively narrow seam bordering strips on the haltl backs 1 and 10 respectively. The bottom of the left half back is then seamed back parallel with the lower edge for the full width ot the extension 11 whereby to form a fold7 the seam stitching being designated by the numeral 15 in Figure XV. Then the lel't halt back is trimmed oli' along the diagonal line 16 as may be seen in Figure XV.

The two haltl backs are now laid out flat, the mid back seam laid open by pressing, the right half back notched by making an incision 17 which commences Vnear the top ot' -the curved edge 3 and extends as far as the line of the seam 14. and the fold ot' the half back is turned right side out at its bottom preparatory to pressing the flap 2 thereupon. Directing atten tion to Figure XVII it will be observed that the lower edge ot the lett halt back has been folded up at 18 and a crosswise extending stitch 19 been supplied to sew together the upper end ot the flap 2 and the upper end ot the fold 11. The stitching 19 commences at the'bottom of the seam 1st. and extends at substantially right angles thereto to the bottom or' the curved edges 3 and 12. A part of the extension 9 is then clipped oill so that it about corresponds in 'length with the width of the mid seam bordering strip. Thereafter', the two-ply lining is laid flat against the iap 2 and the extension 9 of its binding bent around vand underneath the binding al on the seam bordering strip ot the right half back 1, following which, one telling stitch 2O is made along the laminated curved upper edges 3 and 12, and another felling stitch 21 applied to the upper end of the folded edge of the lining thereby concealing the manner of construction and securely sewing the parts together. The bottom of the right haltv back is then folded up at 22 to correspond to the told 18 otthe left halt back and then 'telling is accomplished with stitches 23 and 24 to secure the Atolds 22 and 18 respectively. A vent construction embodying the inventions described will show no exterior stitches in the back ot the linished coat 25 below the bottom ot the mid back seam but the 'Hap in the righthal't' back is securely atlixed to the told in the le'lit halt back and the upper corner ot the flap of the right half back reentorced the manner of turning under the end of its binding. The 'folded lining piece is securely bound and supplies the requisite weight to insure the trimness ot' hang so desirable in a garment vent.

I claim 1. A garment provided with a vent tlap and a folded lining piece approximately con- 'forming in size and shape to said lap, with its loop edge mainly tree and with its two longitudinal edges aliixed to the edge of said iiap. y

2,. A garment provided with a pair ot partway seamed half backs, one of the seam borderingl portions ot one haltl back being partially severed so to be adapted to be tlapped across said seam line, a iiolded lining piece in its entirety juxtaposed to one side ol said tlapped-over strip, and telling stitches tor fastening together juxtaposed edges o f said lining piece and the edge ot' said tlapped strip and for vsecuring the upper part of the composite flap to the same halt' back.

3. A garment comprising a pair of half backs seamed 'together along a given line to leave inside seam-bordering strips, one

of said halt' backs being provided with a flap,

and a 'tinishing element for 'said lflap, said element including a projecting end doubled under one ot' said seamebordering strips.

l.. A garment comprising a pair of half backs seamed together along a given line to leave inside seam bordering strips, one oit said halt backs being provided with a tlap projecting across said seam line and a lining structure covering said flap, said structure including a projecting end doubled under one of said seam bordering strips and stitching tor aflixing said structure to the other sea1i'1-borderi1ig strip.

5. A garment comprising the combination of a pair of half backs seamed together for a certain distance, one of said half backs including a fold beyond one end of said seam and the other half back including a iap adapted to overlie said fold and a seam bordering strip, stitching securing said fold and Hap together, and lining stitched both to said flap and to said seam bordering strip.

6. A garment comprising a pair of halt' backs seamed together along a portion of adjoining edges to form seam-bordering stripsyone ot said seam-bordering strips being notched at the lower end ot' the seam line and enlarged below the notch to form a flap adapted to extend across the seam line, said l'lap and the seam-bordering strip trom which it was partially severed llying flat on opposite sides ot said seam line, and two-ply lining covering said 'liap and the lower end of said strip and stitched to each.

7. A garment comprising a pair oi halt backs seamed ltogether along a portion of adjoining edges to form sean'i-bordering strips, one of said seam-bordering strips being notched at the lower end of the seam line and enlarged below the notch to form a flap adapted to extend across the seam line, said liap and the seam-bordering strip from which it was partially severed lying liet on opposite sides of said seein Aline, stitching seein'ing seid iold and flap and lining together, and binding` ior the edges ol" said iiip :ind lining including n projecting` upper end sewn around the lower end ot said Strip adjacent to its notch.

8. fr garment comprising ii pair of hzill bucks seemed together along u portion of adjoining edges to torni seein bordering strips, one of Said seem-bordering strips heilig notched and enlarged below to iori'n u liep, the other Vstrip being enlarged und ,iolded beck, :eid liep adapted to overlie said fold, and lining :structure covering said 'liep and the lower end oi" seid Strip und stitched to one side of one and to the other side olf the other.

9. A garment comprising a pair of half bricks' seemed together to provide comparu- .tively narrow seein-bordering strips, said seein terminating Sonie distance lroin the ends of the parte along Seid seani line, one of .Said strips being out erosewise to perniit its lower end to be flatly leid against the lower end of the seein-bordering strip on the other half back, Sziid partially Severed lower strip end carrying an extension sewn to the end ofthe upper portion of seid partially severed seein bordering Strip.

l0. i garment comprising e pairof halt bricks; senined together to provide eoinp'erzi-k tively narrow Seiini-bordering stripe, seid senin tern'iinziting eoniedisizonee frein the ends ot the parte along seid seein line, one ol said strips being` cnt oros-swine to permit its; lower end to be Spread nemer iid eeuni und leid iigiiinet the lowerrend or lthe seeinliordering Strip on the other halt lmelz, folded lining7 binding 'tor securing said lining to .fluid lower end which extends'iieroee the senin line, the .ripper end oi said binding being inserted beneath und sewn to the lower end of the upper portion of sind partially Severed seein bordering strip.

il. A giri-nient provided Vwith a Seiuned bee-lc portion und a Vent. hip7 zi Yfolded lining pieee having Vtwo edges eon'iiorining to zin edge of Said flap and ineens `tor ye'nelosing 'the Conforming edges oi4 seid lining piece and the edge oit Said jtiiip, seid ineensfbeing additioniillyv Secured tol seidV back portion.

C* `ned by ine, this 16th doy of January,

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